
When traversing the north-western region of France on our trips to England there are two distinct silhouettes we have always noticed in the distance, but never investigated further.
Think about it, one of the silhouettes is that of the tallest complete cathedral in France, the Cathedral of Amiens – a World Heritage thing! And the other is that of the Cathedral of Beauvais which albeit never fully completed features incredible achievements in gothic architecture and the highest vault in Europe.
This weekend we decided to make up for lost time and visiting these two cathedrals. Our initiative was rewarded with the most splendid weather that early autumn can provide – you know, sunny all day long with this light haze, which works so well with the changing colours of foliage, grasses and herbs. La France was indeed belle and douce.
When approaching the towns of Beauvais and Amiens their respective cathedrals appeared as soft silhouettes and when up close they were bathed in light diffuse enough to present the limestone structured at their best and harsh enough to render all the details in their constructions.
These ambitious constructions were started in the 13th century and must in complexity and boldness have been comparable to that of undertaking the construction of a complex space infra-structure in outer space today. The cathedrals were not only very elaborate in their architecture – also in their interior. My attention was in particular drawn to the three dimensionally biblical scenes in the cathedral of Amiens, sculpted in limestone and coloured according to medieval fashion.
Interleaved between the visits to the cathedrals we had the more contemporary experience of visiting the tapestry museum of Beauvais. This visit was also a first for us, which is remarkable in a way, since we have been interested in textile art and crafts for several years now, and the city of Beauvais is only about an hour’s drive away. We should actually go there twice a year, since this is the frequency with which the museum changes its exhibitions.
For us they had on display tapestries and entire sets of upholstered furniture featuring motifs of well known expressionists and modern artists. It was a delight for the eyes. You know – the large scale designs and deep colours of tapestries, their surfaces totally free of reflections and that inviting “something” which is only found in textile art and craft.
So, at the end of the day our initiative had not only been rewarded with a splendid autumnal weather – the last of that calibre this year, I believe – but also by an encounter with visions, ambitions, ingenuity and their implementation by skilled craftspersons and artists.